Absolute Yorkies

I'll stay safe in my crate, mommy!

TODAY’S TIDBIT:  We hope all of you in the US had a wonderful Thanksgiving!  Judy Wright of Rosehill Yorkies returns today with Part 4: “Hunker Down, Shelter In Place!” of our series, “Disaster Planning: Do It Now!”

Shelter In Place
If you’ve been advised to evacuate do so as quickly as possible!  However, if the decision has been made for you to shelter in place if that is the only or best option for you, follow these simple life saving guidelines:

• Bring your dog indoors as soon as local authorities declare imminent disaster.
• Crate your dogs – you don’t want to have to try and find a terrified hiding pet!
• Be sure you have your dog’s collar on her with tags attached.
• If you have a “safe room” be sure to have all your emergency supplies in that area before hand.  No time to stock and arrange the room now!
• If your dog has reacted anxiously to bad weather in the past, administer a sedative as directed that you’ve used previously that your vet has prescribed for her, before the weather turns nasty.
• If you’re going to board your dog while you hunker down at home, you will need to take the following items with your pet to a shelter or boarding facility: collar with ID and rabies tag, copies of health records, ID on all belongings, crate or carrier, harness and leash, food and meds to last at least 5-7 days, their picture with your contact info on back, as well as your pet’s name and vet’s name and a blanket or towel for her to sleep on inside the crate or cage.

After The Storm

• Always keep your pet on a leash after a major storm or event. Scents and landscape have changed and this will be confusing and frightening to your dog.  
• Some pets become very defensive or aggressive during this time of chaos.  
• Be aware that power lines may be down and storm debris scattered in areas that were once safe.  
• Be cautious of any reptiles that may have been washed into your area with flooding and high water.

Awesome information, Judy!  Disasters can be so devastating and confusing for our dogs.  Being prepared is the best defence!  See you on Friday for TODAY’S TIDBIT.

Sources: ASPCA, FEMA, Red Cross and AHF (Animal Health Foundation)
         

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We have to go don't we, mommy?

TODAY’S TIDBIT:  Our vitally important “Disaster Planning: Do It Now!”  series continues with Judy Wright of Rosehill Yorkies.  When a disaster is imminent, there are decisions you must make if you’re given enough time and it’s not a mandatory evacuation situation.  You have to decide if you’re going to stay or go.  I’ll cover both circumstances so you can have an idea of what important things you must consider in either of these critical situations.

Let’s GO!!!
You’ve decided to leave and you’re taking your pets with you.  Your emergency medical kit and your disaster kit are assembled and ready to grab and go!  But where are you going to go and how will you get there?  And where will you stay?  Keep in mind, emergency shelters usually don’t allow pets so you must make arrangements for them.  

Prepare Your Evacuation Route
Wherever you live you must consider your evacuation routes in all directions.  In Houston during an evacuation from a hurricane, areas that are susceptible to flooding from storm surge are all categorized.  Evacuations are staged with the most susceptible areas allowed out first, followed by the next most susceptible areas and so on.

We’re instructed to remain in place until the area we live in is told to leave. Each area has its own evacuation route that residents in that area must follow. This is designed to prevent total gridlock of the highways, as millions of residents rush to escape.  You must be aware of evacuation plans in your particular area.  Often times highways that normally have lanes going in both directions will be redirected and all traffic will flow away from the evacuation zone.

Find Pet Friendly Hotels and Motels
Once you’ve picked an escape route you must know how far you’re going to travel. NOW is the time to locate and select pet friendly hotels and motels at varying distances from your starting point along all your chosen evacuation routes.  

You can go online and get a great selection of pet friendly hotels all over the United States and Canada.  Write down the names of the motels and hotels you’ve selected along with their phone numbers and addresses.  I plan almost a week ahead which route I’ll be taking when I leave and will call and make reservations ahead of time so I’m certain I’ll have rooms reserved.

Boarding Your Pet
If staying in a motel is not an option, you must board your pet. Have the phone numbers and the requirements ready for each boarding facility you’ve selected.  Find out what their evacuation plans are!  Locate vet clinics that have boarding facilities.  Be sure your pet’s vaccinations are current.

Make Sure You Have Cash and Gas
Be sure you have a full tank of gas in the car and cash on hand.  In disasters, you are confronted with long lines at every gas station and grocery store you encounter.  Often, ATM machines run out of cash.  Have all this taken care of well in advance so you’re not part of the panic.

LEAVE When The Order Is Given!
When you’re instructed by your city leadership that it’s time to leave, LEAVE!!!  You’ll have everything ready to go – your evacuation plan is chosen as far as route and direction, your destination point is selected and your reservations have been made.  DO NOT CHALLENGE MOTHER NATURE TO SHOW YOU HOW TOUGH SHE IS! LOAD UP AND LEAVE!  Keep the safety of your family and your pets foremost in your mind and arrive alive! 

Next week, we’ll discuss what you need to do if you decide to stay!  Start preparing now everyone and see you on Friday for TODAY’S TIDBIT.

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Are you sure I can't bring my froggy costume, mommy?

TODAY’S TIDBIT:  Our series, “Disaster Planning: Do It Now!”  by Judy Wright of Rosehill Yorkies continues today.  If an evacuation order comes to you abruptly in the middle of the night, would you know what to grab first?  It could very well be a matter of life or death and you may only have minutes to get out.

Advanced planning is paramount – it can save you and your dog’s life!  Having an evacuation plan in place will make an emergency situation much less stressful for everyone involved.

Prior to an emergency, you must do the following:

1. Have a pet carrier for each pet.
2. Make sure all of your dogs are microchipped!
3. Have a harness for each pet (we don’t use collars on our Yorkies) with their rabies tag, tag with your name, address and cell phone number on it plus your vet’s number and a tag with your pet’s name and vet’s phone number – a total of three tags on that harness (keep your “Emergency Harness” in a zip lock bag in your Pet Disaster Kit).
4. Prepare a Pet Disaster Kit.

Here’s a list of what to include in your Pet Disaster Kit:

• Food for seven days with a pop-top type of can and don’t forget to bring kibble
• Bottled water, 1 gallon per pet, should last a week for a small dog
• Medication your dog takes
• Tagged harness in a zip lock bag
• Leashes for each pet in a zip lock bag
• Copy of each pet’s health record, vaccination record and current picture of each pet in a zip lock bag
• Your vet’s phone number, emergency vet clinic phone number, boarding kennel phone number and list of pet friendly motels in a zip lock bag
• Plastic bags for dog waste
• Diaper wipes
• Blue plastic tarp
• Exercise pen for pets

Collect all the above items and put your Pet Disaster Kit, Pet First Aid Kit  that we talked about last month and your carriers all in one place, together, where you can snatch them all up in a hurry and go!

Wow!  Awesome information, Judy.  Join us next week for Part 3 of our series, “Disaster Planning: Do It Now!”  Have a great day everybody and see you on Friday for TODAY’S TIDBIT.

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Are we ready, mommy?

TODAY’S TIDBIT:  We hope everyone had a safe and happy Halloween.  Today, our guest writer, Judy Wright of Rosehill Yorkiesis starting an exciting new series, “Disaster Planning: Do It Now!”  It’s important for all of us to be ready in an emergency.  Don’t make the mistake of thinking a disaster couldn’t strike your hometown!

Part 1:  Introduction to Disaster Planning

It’s 3 a.m. on a hot summer Texas night.  The house is quiet and everyone is sleeping soundly.  Suddenly, you are jarred out of bed by the booming voice over a bullhorn – “This is the Police!  You must get out immediately!  Evacuate immediately!  The forest is on fire and it is spreading this way.  You have approximately 5 minutes to evacuate the area!” 

This nightmare was a reality for more than 1500 families last month as central Texas burned.  Hundreds of millions of dollars were lost in homes, forests and livestock.  What would YOU do if that command to, “evacuate the area immediately” became your reality?  Could you be jarred from a deep sleep and have the ability to wrap your mind around everything you know you must grab in 5 minutes or less? 

Of course, the family and pets come to mind immediately.  What about supplies you will need for possibly a week or longer away from home?  Crates?   Leashes?   Health records?   Medications?  Special diets?  Important phone numbers?  Could you make it happen in 5 minutes???

We’re going to try and help you organize what you’re going to need should a disaster strike.  You need an action plan for your pets.  Hopefully, you have already made an emergency plan for your family and your important personal papers and items. 

The key to success is to do these things NOW before that dreaded wake up call!  You can then immediately spring into action, fuelled by adrenalin, memory and instinct.  You’ll be panic free and able to get everyone out safely with everything you’ll need for your pets for at least a week.

Thanks, Judy for this awesome information!  Don’t miss “Part 2: Disaster Planning: Evacuation!” next Wednesday!  Have a great day everybody and see you on Friday for TODAY’S TIDBIT.

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Our first aid kit is ready isn't it, mommy?

TODAY’S TIDBIT:  If you don’t have a pet first aid kit we’re here to help you make one! Judy Wright, RN of Rosehill Yorkies has shared her emergency first aid knowledge with you and to help you administer first aid to your dog, you will need a well-equipped First Aid Kit! 

Here is Judy’s Own Pet First Aid Kit.  It contains everything that you will need in the event of an emergency to stabilize your pet until you rush to the vet.  The list may seem a bit long but you don’t want to get caught short in an emergency!

Tweezers
2 sizes curved hemostats – mosquitoes and medium size (Hemostats are like scissors, only they don’t cut.  Use them for grasping things like slivers of glass or a splinter).
2 sizes straight hemostats – mosquitoes and medium size
Bandage scissors (they have a rounded end on one of the blades so you can safely slip it under the bandage next to the skin without poking your dog).
Latex Gloves (unpowdered)
Cotton balls
Q-Tips
Tongue Depressors (make great splints for broken legs in small dogs!)
Sterile cotton tip applicators (These are like a sterile q-tip but individually wrapped. Used for applying medication to a wound without getting germs in the wound).
1 pack each size of Gauze pads (2×2 and 4×4)
Several rolls Kerlex (rolled gauze bandages) for wrapping (size 2 inch and 4 inch)
Elastoplast (BandAids) 2 inch and 4 inch
Vet Wrap, 1 inch and 2 inch (Bandage stretches and sticks only to itself, not to hair or skin)
Sterile bandages, 4×4
Assorted tape, several rolls of each (silk and adhesive, 1 inch and 2 inch)
Alcohol Pads
Quick Stop
Antiseptic for wound cleaning (Dettol)
Chlorhexidine 4% Antiseptic Hand Wash
Hydrogen peroxide for flushing wounds
Antibacterial spray
Antibacterial cream (Vets don’t like oil based ointments applied to burns so it’s important to have a cream available in your kit).
Antibacterial ointments (Bacitracin, Neomycin)
Benadryl Cream (Comes in a tube like toothpaste and is used on itching bites and allergic skin reactions).
Burn Gel Plus (Includes a relief gel with dressing and tape for an all-in-one package).
Sterile Eye Wash (several large bottles)
Rectal Thermometer (digital, for quick results in anxious dogs!)
K-Y Lubricant
Bulb Syringe
Pediatric Benadryl Liquid
Nutra-Cal
Dr.Miller’s Pet Nurta Drops (Has more vitamins in it than Nutri-Cal but not as sticky.  Dogs love it and it’s easy to give).
White Vinegar (for jelly fish stings, wash out for alkaline burns)
Arm and Hammer Baking Soda (wash out for acid burns)
Pedialyte
Pediatric Medication Dropper (for giving oral meds or irrigating wounds)
Muzzle and Leash
Blanket
Bath towel and washcloth
First Aid Book (1^st Aid Companion for Dogs and Cats by Amy Shojai is a good choice).
Laminated 3 x 5 index card with:
Your Vet’s phone number
Emergency Vet Clinic phone number
Animal Poison Control phone number (888-426-4435 – there may be a fee for this call).

You can get hemostats, scissors and other medical tools for your first aid kit by visiting  Veterinary Recommendations for Pet First Aid Kits, First Aid Kits for Pets by DrsFosterSmith online.  Some of the more generic items you can buy at Walmart or your local pharmacy.

Thanks again Judy for sharing your medical knowledge.  I now feel much more confidant if I need to help my Yorkies in a medical emergency!  Let us know if you have any questions or comments.  Be safe everybody and see you on Friday for TODAY’S TIDBIT.

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I'm very careful, mommy!

TODAY’S TIDBIT:  This is the final segment of our “Emergency! Stabilize Your Pet, Rush To The Vet!” series.  Thanks to Judy Wright, RN of Rosehill Yorkies  for this wonderful series!  We appreciate your time and your love for Yorkies, Judy!

What Are Fractures?
FRACTURES ARE AN EMERGENCY SITUATION!!!  We know fractures are broken bones but there are different degrees of fractures.  The break may be incomplete, cracked or just bent. These are called “greenstick fractures” and are most common in young animals. They are extremely painful.

Fractures are classified as “open “or “closed.”  In “closed” fractures, the bone does not break through the skin.  In “open” fractures, the skin is broken over the fracture and the broken bone pokes through the skin (uch…this kind of break renders ME completely unconscious and useless!!!)

 Causes of Fractures
The most common causes of fractures are your dog being hit by a car, being dropped or accidentally stepped on.  Also if they get their leg caught while their body is still in motion, they can break a bone.  ALL FRACTURES REQUIRE VET ATTENTION!!!

Signs To Look For

• Your dog will not be able to use her leg at all and will try to hold her leg up. Her foot may rest on the ground when she’s standing still.
• Pain at the fracture site. Your dog will “argue and protest” when you handle the affected limb.
• The leg may look deformed, twisted or shortened.
• There may be swelling around the break site.
• You may feel or hear a grating if bone fragments rub together. Don’t deliberately look for or try to find this sign as it is extremely painful to the dog.
• Shock is due to pain or blood loss. Severe blood loss can result from femoral or pelvic area fractures.
• Open fractures are usually more serious as the protruding bone and open wound are more open to infection.

Care and Management

• Control any bleeding.
• Keep your dog as quiet as possible.  Place small dogs in a box or a basket.
• Support the injured leg when moving your dog by resting the leg on a towel or holding it in your hand.
• Cover the wound.  If the bone is NOT protruding, use a dry bandage.  If the bone IS protruding, gently cover with a wet dressing.  Be as “sterile” as you possibly can be.
• Soak a 4 x 4 pad with sterile eyewash or contact lens solution.  Place the wet pad over the exposed bone and hold gently in place.  Keep it wet by gently wrapping saran plastic wrap around it.  Let your dog position himself for comfort.

Applying a Splint Bandage
Thank goodness our Yorkies are small!!!  It’s a lot easier to do this to a 7 lb. doggy as opposed to an 80 lb. miniature pony!

1. Support the Fracture:  This helps reduce pain and swelling as well as any additional tissue damage. In a closed fracture it may also help prevent the bone from poking through the skin.  Remember, a wet sterile dressing over protruding bone and open wound! The sterile wet dressing keeps the bone moist and keeps it from drying out which can present major issues later.  Bone is a living tissue or organ. You do not want the exposed end of the bone to dry out.
2. Be gentle!  If your dog is totally uncooperative and struggling, STOP! You may create more damage if you continue.  You MUST cover any exposed bone with a sterile wet pad…you may just have to hold it in place on the way to the vet.
3. If you can manage your pet, after you cover the bone and wound with the wet 4×4 pad, you will next wrap the leg in strips of cotton wool that you have divided into half thickness.
4. Take a length of wool about a foot or so long, that is as wide as your dog’s leg is long.  Start at the saran covered wet 4×4 pad that’s over the wound and you start wrapping the wool around and around the leg…firmly, but not tight enough to cut off the circulation.
5. Cover the first layer of cotton wool wrapping with gauze, firmly, but not too tight.  Repeat this step two more times, alternating cotton wool and gauze bandage.  
6. This dressing should be taunt enough to make a thumping sound if tapped on.
7. Hold this all in place with Elastoplast or VetWrap.  You can use electrical tape if necessary.  

YOU HAVE STABILIZED YOUR PET NOW RUSH TO THE VET!!! REMEMBER, YOUR PET WILL BE SHOCKY, SO KEEP HER WRAPPED SNUGLY IN A TOWEL OR BLANKET.

Next week, we will have a list to make your own COMPLETE first aid kit that includes everything you could possibly need in an emergency to stabilize your pet for the trip to the vet!

We hope you’ve enjoyed our series!  We’d be happy to read your questions or comments.  See you Friday for TODAY’S TIDBIT.

Sources:  Red Cross, SPCA, Pets.webmd.com, Helpmyhound.com, Wikipet.com, FirstAid101, PetAlert.com

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Shock is scary isn't it, mommy?

TODAY’S TIDBIT:  SHOCK IS AN EMERGENCY SITUATION!  Immediate action is required to save your pet’s life!  Intensive care nurse and owner of Rosehill Yorkies, Judy Wright continues our series, “Stabilize Your Pet, Rush To The Vet!”

Exactly what is this condition that can be so deadly to our precious Yorkies?  Shock happens when a lack of blood is circulating around your dog’s system that can cause injury to her organs and if left unattended SHOCK CAN BE FATAL! 

CAUSES OF SHOCK
Severe stress to your dog caused by:

• Emotional Trauma
• Injury
• Accident
• Infection
• Heat exhaustion
• Dehydration
• Blood loss

Fluid loss caused by: 

• Diarrhea or vomiting causing dehydration and loss of circulating blood volume (known as “hypovolemic shock.”)

SYMPTOMS TO LOOK FOR

• Rapid weak pulse
• Shallow rapid breathing
• Irregular breathing
• Gums will be pale, cold, sticky
• Ears will be cold to touch
• Lack of energy with a characteristic “slipping from consciousness” look

WHAT TO DO

This is an EMERGENCY SITUATION!  You must QUICKLY STABILIZE your pet and RUSH TO THE VET!

1. If you can see a bleeding wound apply direct pressure on the wound to stop the bleeding. Remember the steps to take from our last post, “Stop the Bleeding Fast”…if direct pressure does NOT slow or stop the bleeding, remember your pressure points!
2. If your pet sustained a violent blow or blunt force trauma to the body and you can not actually see any external damage, remember…if your pet starts showing any of the signs of shock, you must presume he has internal injuries with bleeding.
3. ***BLOOD SUGAR LEVEL***
   Remember, your Yorkie’s blood sugar drops with stress. The very first thing you can do that may prevent additional complications caused by hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) is to give your Yorkie about a two inch strip of Nutra-Cal, Nutra-Stat or corn syrup.
4. If your dog is alert, let her lick it from your finger…if she is not alert, rub it under her tongue and on her gums. Under the tongue is the best place to put the Nutra-Cal or corn syrup because sugar is immediately absorbed from that area!  This will not hurt your doggy even if her sugar has not already dropped….rest assured, it will be dropping before you arrive at the vet!
5. Wrap your pet in a towel or blanket for warmth. You should be on your way out the door to the car and to the vet or emergency hospital.  In the car, keep your dog’s head lower than her rear end to keep the blood circulating around her heart and brain.  Talk calmly and reassuringly, stroking her head…(try to keep a hand on your pet as much as possible so she knows you are there) as you get her to immediate vet care!

Shock requires much more intensive treatment than you have available to you. IV therapy and IV medications must be administered immediately. Your vet will begin “supportive therapy” right away.

Remember: shock can happen under so many circumstances so it’s important to IMMEDIATELY know what to do to stabilize your dog and rush to the vet!  Join us next Wednesday for “Part 7:  Fractures Are Broken Bones.“  See you on Friday for TODAY’S TIDBIT.

Sources:
Dogfirstaid101, ASPCA, American Red Cross, Vet Secrets Blog by Dr. Andrew Jones, DVM, LongLiveYourDog.com, Pets.WebMD.com, Helpmyhound.com, Wikipet.com

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Bleeding is scary isn't it, mommy!

TODAY’S TIDBIT:  Welcome to Part 4 of our series, “Emergency! Stabilize Your Pet, Rush to the Vet!” by Judy Wright, RN of Rosehill Yorkies. 

Fluffy comes running from the other side of your yard to join the family on the patio.  It’s then that you see the bloody pawprints…

BLEEDING IS AN EMERGENCY SITUATION!!!  QUICKLY STABILIZE YOUR PET, RUSH TO THE VET!

EXTERNAL BLEEDING
When your dog is injured you may or may not see signs of bleeding.  Bleeding can be external where you will see it or it can be internal which is more difficult to detect.

If you can see an open wound or see blood running down Fluffy’s leg or body, check the wound to be sure there is no foreign object in it that can cause further damage.  

You need to use a cloth or gauze of some kind to cover the wound.  The weave in the material will help the blood clot. Apply direct pressure to the bleeding wound.  DO NOT remove the cloth or gauze.  Doing so will disrupt the formation of a clot.  

If The Gauze Becomes Saturated
Apply MORE GAUZE ON TOP and continue to hold firmly over the wound. Elevate the limb that is bleeding. If this is a body wound place your pet on her side with her head 5-6 inches lower than her body.  Hold your dressings firmly over the wound. Keeping her head lower than her hind end will keep blood flowing to her brain.
Spurting Blood And Pressure Points

If you notice the blood “spurting” or “pumping” from the wound you have what’s called an “arterial bleeder” and you MUST know where to apply pressure to save your dog’s life!

FRONT PAWS:  Place your fingers on the inside of your dog’s lower front leg and press firmly.
FRONT LEG:  Place your fingers on the inside of your dog’s upper front leg and your thumb on the outside of the front leg, half way between the shoulder and elbow.  Press firmly right to the bone.
BACK PAW:  Place your fingers on the FRONT of the back leg, right above the paw and with your thumb on the back of the leg press tightly.
BACK LEG:  Place your fingers on the inside of your dog’s groin and thigh and press firmly.

INTERNAL BLEEDING
If your pet has suffered a violent blow or blunt force trauma always suspect internal bleeding and damage.  There is nothing you can do to stop internal bleeding. INTERNAL BLEEDING IS AN EMERGENCY SITUATION!!! YOU NEED TO RUSH TO THE VET BEFORE your dog loses so much blood that you lose your best friend!

Signs and Symptoms of Shock:
*anxiety and restlessness
*rapid weak pulse
*nausea, vomiting, excessive drooling, vomiting blood
*bruising at the injury site
*taunt abdomen, abdominal pain
*excessive thirst
*bleeding from mouth, ears, nose, rectum
*soft tissues are now hard, swollen and painful

If you suspect your dog has internal bleeding, she will likely go into shock.  Place your dog in a box on her side with her head lower than her hind end, cover her to keep her warm and RUSH to the vet!

Remember! When our Yorkies go into shock their blood sugar drops like a rock! Before you head to the vet, give your dog about 2 inches of NutraCal, NutraStat or a little corn syrup IMMEDIATELY  following the accident. This will NOT hurt her because even if her sugar does NOT drop dangerously low it is going to drop!  Tell your vet when you get to the office what you gave her.

Be calm (try!!), talk reassuringly to her and stroke her head while rushing to the vet!

Come back next Wednesday for Part 5:  Shock Can Be Deadly but see you on Monday for TODAY’S TIDBIT.

Sources:
LongLiveYourDog.com
DogFirstAid101
ASPCA
AKC

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We stay away from hot things don't we, mommy!

TODAY’S TIDBIT:  Burns are a complicated issue!  Judy Wright, RN of Rosehill Yorkies will try and make understanding burns and how to administer emergency first aid to your dog as simple as possible.  First aid for burns on our pets is pretty much the same as it is for burns on humans.

The major difference is our pets cannot tell us how bad it is! Because of that, remember…WHATEVER YOU DO IS AIMED AT STABILIZING YOUR PET, THEN RUSHING TO THE VET!

There Are Three Categories of Burns
Thermal Burns
Chemical Burns
Electrical Burns

Burns Are Identified As:
Superficial:  These are surface burns like burns on the skin.
Deep:  These are second and third degree burns, usually chemical or electrical in nature.

1.  THERMAL BURNS
These are the most common burns we encounter with our pets.  They occur from exposure to hot items such as hot liquids, hot stoves, bar-b-q grills, heating pads, hot sidewalks or streets, fire and even hair dryers.  This category of burns is usually superficial.  

Superficial burns are usually painful like when you have burned your hand on a hot iron or the rack in the oven!  On your pet, the skin will be reddened and the fur does not pull out easily because the burn is not deep enough to damage the hair follicles.  The area may blister.

To treat superficial burns apply ice packs (bags of frozen peas or corn make GREAT ice packs!) wrapped in a thin towel.  Leave these iced compresses on for 20 – 40 minutes. Then wash the area gently with cool water and chlorhexadine disinfectant or an antibacterial soap (being careful not to irritate the skin) and gently pat the area dry. Gently cut away as much hair as possible over the site to prevent infection. 

Apply Neomycin Cream to the area.  It’s an excellent choice.  DO NOT USE AN OIL BASED PRODUCT WHEN APPLYING A TOPICAL ANTIBIOTIC .

CALL YOUR VET and inform her of the situation, what happened, what the area looks like and what first aid you have done.  She will probably want to see the area and may have additional medication she wants to use. Infection of the area is your main concern.  It is important you apply topical antibiotics as directed by your vet.

2.  CHEMICAL BURNS
Chemical burns usually occur when your pet licks, drinks, swallows, rubs against or walks in some type of chemical. Chemical burns are divided into two categories:  acid burns or alkali burns.

Acid burns are immediately treated by washing the area abundantly with baking soda dissolved in water, 4 Tbsp. in 1 pint of cool water.

Alkali burns are neutralized by flushing the area abundantly with vinegar mixed in cool water, 2 Tbsp. in 1 pint of cool water.  .   

The usual offenders in this type of burn are common household products.  Items like liquid drain cleaner, toilet bowl cleaners, bleach, swimming pool chlorinators, muriatic acid, lime, lye, battery acid and gasoline, kerosene and paint thinners.

IF YOUR PET HAS INGESTED ANY OF THESE PRODUCTS, GRAB THE CONTAINER AND RUSH TO THE VET!  Some of these chemicals are poisonous as well as able to burn the skin…don’t waste a moment getting to the vet!!!  Vomiting is not advisable in some of these poisons and encouraged in others…your vet will be able to effectively deal with what is going on internally with  the chemical your dog has swallowed.  

INGESTED CHEMICALS ARE AN EMERGENCY SITUATION!!!  GRAB THE CONTAINER IF POSSIBLE AND RUSH TO THE VET!

If your pet has walked through or rubbed up against any of these chemicals, you must flush the area with flowing water for at least 20 – 30 minutes. If you know if it’s an acid or an alkali that is the offending chemical, FIRST flush the area with the appropriate alkaline or acidic solution we outlined above. After you have thoroughly washed the area with those solutions to immediately neutralize the burning chemical, continue to flush the area with flowing water for an additional 20 minutes.

You can then put egg whites or milk solution on the area.  Chemicals break down the protein in the skin. Slathering the area with egg whites and/or milk, gives the chemical another readily available protein to attack. Now, it’s time to RUSH TO THE VET for further treatment.

3.  ELECTRICAL BURNS
ELECTRICAL BURNS ARE AN EMERGENCY SITUATION!  These burns most commonly occur when your pet comes in contact with direct current from an electrical source such as chewing an electrical cord, contact with an electrical outlet, with an electric fence or dog fencing, contact with a downed power line, even a lightening strike can cause not only external damage to your pet but your dog’s internal organs can be damaged.  Irregular heart rhythm or even cardiac arrest is likely to happen.

IMMEDIATELY:

1. Shut off the electrical source.
2. Lay the dog flat on his right side. This will allow you to have access to provide both artificial respiration and chest compressions should they be required.
3. Check for a pulse and for breathing.  To check for a pulse:  place two fingers on the inside of the thigh, just above the knee. If there is no pulse, chest compressions should be started immediately (CLICK HERE for instructions on administering CPR for dogs).
4. To check for breathing:  watch for the rise and fall of the chest. If the dog isn’t breathing, ensure her airway is clear (open her mouth and wipe away any vomit or mucous) and begin artificial respiration (open her mouth, pull her tongue forward, then close her mouth, put your mouth over her nose and mouth and blow). Maintain artificial respiration and chest compressions until your dog’s heart and breathing are working on their own.
5. Keep the dog warm. Electrocution can quickly lead to shock so it is important to keep your dog warm while you’re working on him and while transporting him to the veterinarian. Wrap him in blankets and turn up the heat in your car.
6. RUSH YOUR DOG TO THE VET!  If possible, have someone drive you and your dog to the vet so you can continue to monitor her vital signs while en route. If possible, CALL AHEAD so the veterinary team can be ready to begin working on your dog upon arrival.

The best first aid is prevention!  Keep household chemicals and medications locked up and high up.  Make sure your dog doesn’t have any electrical cords in his safe area especially when you’re leaving the house so he doesn’t get bored and chew on a cord or two!  Be careful around BBQ’s and camping stoves.  A little prevention goes a long way!

Join us next Wednesday for Part 4: Stop the Bleeding!  But first see you this Friday for TODAY’S TIDBIT. 

Sources:  Dog Electric Shock and Burn Treatment – VetInfo 
First Aid 101: NetPlaces.com
American Red Cross
Ask a Vet: Dr Francine Rattner, DVM
AVMA

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We walk early in the morning don't we, mommy!

TODAY’S TIDBIT:  Our series, “Emergency: Stabilize Your Pet, Rush to the Vet“ by Judy Wright, RN of Rosehill Yorkies  continues today.  Spring has sprung, fall has fell, summer is here and it is hotter than…a pizza oven!!!  Dogs do not tolerate heat as well as we humans do!  Normal body temperature for your dog is 100 degrees F to 103 degrees F.

Avoid the Heat With Your Dog
I think we all need to be aware, especially joggers and marathon runners, that running with your dog during the hottest part of the day (10am. – 4:30pm.) can lead to heat stroke in your dog.  Jogging on city streets exposes your dog to additional heat that radiates up from the concrete sidewalks and asphalt streets.  You’re unintentionally endangering your best friend!

The Difference Between Heat Exhaustion And Heat Stroke
Heat exhaustion is the early stage of heat stroke.  At THIS stage, you can take immediate action to stop heat exhaustion from progressing into heat stroke.  You have about 10 minutes to get your dog’s temperature down and under control.

Symptoms Of Heat Exhaustion

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Rapid panting
• The skin inside your dog’s ears and gums will get very red

What Should I Do?
YOU NEED TO COOL YOUR DOG DOWN IMMEDIATELY!

• Quickly get your dog to a cool dry place in air conditioning if possible or in the shade.
• Let the hose run for a couple of seconds and then spray your dog with water if you’re outside.
• Put your dog in the bathtub and spray her with cool water there if you don’t have an outdoor hose available.
• Small dogs can be placed in the sink with cool tap water running over their bodies.
• You can hold a bag of frozen peas or corn against your pet’s groin area or under her armpits.
• Offer cool water to drink.
• Your dog will need to rest.

Take Your Dog’s Temperature

• Take your dog’s rectal temperature to see if the water is cooling her off.  If you’re nervous or inexperienced at taking her temperature that way, use a pet approved ear thermometer.
• Remember, a dog’s normal temperature is 100 degrees F to 103 degrees F.
• If your dog’s temperature is still climbing and hits 104 degrees F, CALL YOUR VET IMMEDIATELY!  Tell her what’s happened, what you’ve done that hasn’t worked and how long it will take you to get to the clinic!

HEAT STROKE

Humidity interferes with your dog’s ability to stay cool.  Heat stroke is more common in hot, humid climates. Dogs pant to control their inner body temperature. They don’t sweat. In heat stroke, panting is no longer enough to cool your dog’s soaring temperature. 

Heat stroke can lead to death in as little as 20 minutes for example, if a dog is left in a closed locked car.  In some situations it can take several hours, like when dogs hunt or play relentlessly in the heat for extended periods of time or jogging behind us as we exercise.

Symptoms of Heat Stroke

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Stumbling
• Difficulty breathing
• Disoriented, listless
• Seizures, collapse, coma, death

What Should I Do?
Heat stroke IS AN EMERGENCY AND MUST BE TREATED RIGHT AWAY!  Successful treatment requires intensive emergency care at your vet. 

Here are some IMMEDIATE STEPS you can take BEFORE rushing to the vet that may keep your dog alive.  Remember, STABILIZE YOUR PET, RUSH TO THE VET: 

• Take your dog’s temperature so you know where you’re starting from.  
• Put your dog in cool water only.  NOT  ICE  WATER!  Ice water is too cold.
• You can put ice bags on your dog’s groin area and under his armpits.
• You can use rubbing alcohol on the pads of his feet, armpits and groin areas. Rubbing alcohol is very cooling.
• Continue to take your dog’s temperature and when it’s down to 103 degrees F, grab your bag of frozen peas or ice packs for her groin and HEAD TO THE VET!  
• ***If her temperature does not drop AFTER 20 MINUTES of trying to cool her down, grab your bag of frozen peas for her groin and HEAD TO THE VET!***
• You can wrap her in a cool wet towel and keep the air conditioning blowing on her in the car on the way to the vet.

How to Prevent Heat Stroke

• Keep your dog in well-ventilated areas.
• Make sure your dog has plenty of fresh cool water and shade.
• Don’t let your dog lay in sun for extended periods of time.
• Keep jogging or playing to a minimum on hot days.
• Be careful of “hot cage driers” at the groomers (dogs have been killed at groomers this way).
• Older dogs and overweight dogs are at higher risk.
• Exercise at cooler times of the day and stay inside between 10 am – 4:30 pm.

Crisis Prevention
As an intensive care nurse, I have always practiced “crisis prevention” as opposed to “crisis management.” You have to move so much faster in crisis management and occasionally the situation will continue to spiral out of control and it ends in disaster.

Review the list on preventing heat stroke and do not allow your best friend to get into this emergency situation. Avoidance is a lot easier and your fun family summer day will end on a positive note!  Don’t miss “Part 3 – Burns: Too Hot To Handle” next Wednesday.

See you Friday for TODAY’S TIDBIT.

Sources:

• AVMA
• ASPCA
• American Red Cross
• “Ask a Vet”, Dr. Francine Rattner, DVM
• “PetWave”, Dr. Drew, DVM

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